Martha is a delight to have at any reception desk. I asked her if I could upgrade to a single room (getting too old to share) when she informed me that I was the only one in my 4-bed room … guess what? I stayed in my room (for considerably less!)

Gdansk is beautiful. I did a lot of walking, as well as eating (had outstanding pork knuckles TWICE, with wine, of course) but after my stay I do not believe Gdansk justified more than two nights. The Poles did a great job rebuilding and is definitely a city that I recommend.

From Gdansk I took a 6-hour train ride to Warsaw. A city I visited before and always wanted to visit as it was TOTALLY destroyed during WWII and the Poles had to start from scratch. The result is … uh, the old and very new, next to each other. Looking at Warsaw, I can understand why I despise war the way I do, why I will NEVER be a George Bush (not to mention that sorry-excuse-for-a-human-being, Cheney, or his buddy, Rumsfeld) fan.

Visiting the first time, Warsaw reminded me of my music teacher in 7^th grade, Ms Jaekel (aka The Hen) who introduced us to The Warsaw Concerto by Richard Addinsell. “Listen to the music,” The Hen would say, “and you will hear the bombers, then the bombing, and how they fly off into the distance only to return the next day to continue their destruction.” I will never forget that. This piece by Addinsell (aka the “cheap” Rachmaninoff) has been used in many films and I am including the YouTube video for your listening. Enjoy!

I stayed in a hostel with an incredible location, but the owner needs to get his managerial skills in line. He does not know what he is doing. It was sheer luck that I managed to get in after a 30-minute struggle. I also did not enjoy a man opening our bedroom door at 04h00. I wondered what would have happened had I not raised my head.

Nevertheless, I took a taxi the next morning to the Frederic Chopin airport to catch my flight to Sofia. The hostel in which I stayed, made it clear on its page what to do at the airport to get a cab. I am so glad that I paid attention. On our way to the hostel, Queen was belting “Radio GaGa” and I observed. “Oh, this looks like Trieste. That looks like Belgrade. This could be a street in Zagreb.” To cut a long story short, the instant magic was not there. And, as I would discover, it did not come later.

Sofia is an ugly city. Bulgaria is a very poor country, so poor that the Bulgarians are now saying that life under Communism were better. The receptionist at the hostel is 63 years old and after 38 years working as a nurse, is receiving a pension of 75 euros per month! And then we want to know why people are upset? (make that MAD!) Sofia is very light on sights and one night in Sofia should do it. I decided to skip Skopje and take a bus from Sofia to Ohrid.

I was told that the bus would leave at 19h00, arriving at 06h00 the next day. Riding through Bulgaria I was shocked at how poor some of the areas appeared to be. Riding through one particular area, I asked myself: “Do PEOPLE live here?” And, it brought back memories of the little girl begging in Sofia … “Gypsies, they teach their children how to do it as the parents are in on this” (according to the receptionist at the hostel).

Nevertheless, I arrived at 02h00 instead of 06h00. I tried to explain to the cab drivers that I had to wait at the station until 07h00 for Antonio. They knew him. They phoned him. He told the cab driver to take me to the apartment, as he would meet us there.

I got into the cab and immediately noticed the love the cab driver had for Ohrid (pronounced Och-reed) the place where I was going to stay for a month. Ohrid. A place, I were introduced to by Jelena, the Serb, in Slovenia. What was awaiting me in Macedonia, the only country that I had not visited of the ones that made up the former Yugoslavia?

I was a nervous beaver and I thought: “only time would tell what the next month was going to be like” when I saw a man, who had to be Antonio, approaching the cab … (to be continued)

Onto the next leg (150-minute layover), looking for the SAS counter. No, I was politely told, all the exit row seats were already allocated, but she would put in a request for me. O hell, I thought, this would be a first, as I could not remember when was the last time that I did not have a comfortable seat (extra legroom, remember, these 36ers!) Got to the gate and OMG!! What a mess. There were kazillions of people. I learned that SAS combined two flights into one. The plane was jam packed. Screaming kids everywhere (and they told me that the Swedes were not having kids anymore? Well, those on the plane either had other ideas or every aspirin and Trojan did not work!)

You guessed it, I did not have a comfortable seat, although, so I was told, I was very fortunate to be assigned an aisle seat (“I will put in a request for you as you are tall”). Thank goodness for Mikael, the Swede who is now residing in LA and who sat next to me. We talked like there was no tomorrow, as there was no way that I could sleep in those cramped conditions (Mikael is as tall as I am). Once we got to Stockholm, I took the train ($40!) with him to Station Centrale where an ex of his was waiting. They showed me what to do, and I took the red line to Karlaplan station from where I walked to my hotel: A Best Western that is FABULOUS! (was informed that Karlapan is a very ritzy area, thus the absence of young folks).

Gorgeous Swedish lass was waiting for me at the hotel and had pity on me when I explained that I knew I was early (this was like 09h30 and check in time is set at 14h00), that I was exhausted and it would mean a lot to me if, by any chance, I could get a room. She had mercy on my soul, the angels were smiling and I got a room (had breakfast first) and snoozed like there was no tomorrow as the conference started the next day.

The breakfasts at the Best Western are to die for. So HUGE! You name it; there was enough to feed a small army. Yoghurt, granola, fruit, cold cuts, cheese, eggs (boiled and scrambled), sausages, Swedish meatballs, bacon, bread to die for. I never paid for a meal during the first four days of my visit!

Other than to recover from the jet lag, the first days in Stockholm was conference days. It was fun rubbing shoulders with colleagues from all over the world; it was enlightening to be exposed to their views; it was great exchanging ideas with them, but most important was the ability to listen, and learn, from these men and women.

We went to the Gondolen restaurant one night. OMG, what an experience! Suspended close to heaven, it offers unbelievable views of Stockholm. The food was as good as the view and once again a great time was had by all! The conference ended Saturday around 2 and I thought I would use the time for sightseeing. NOT! It was pretty cold and I was still trying to catch up on some missed sleep. I went to a restaurant around the corner and once I saw the prices, I had one beer ($8 if you don’t mind), went home, packed, played on the internet and off to bed I went.

This meant that the next day was the only day for sightseeing. I checked out, left my bags at the hotel and caught the train to Old Town.  It was OK, not the best I have seen, not the worst. Had a good meal (baked potato with curried chicken salad, beer) and took off for the hotel to retrieve my bags. Said my goodbyes to the wonderful staff, and hit the train, once again, to Centrale Station from where I took a train to Nynashamn (pronounced Nienasham) where I caught the ferry to Gdansk. Had to wait about 90 minutes before we boarded.

Got to my cabin. NOT what I ordered and paid for. Back to reception. “Oh, there’s a problem with the system, happened yesterday too.” Those of you who know me, will know that was the wrong answer. I gave him a choice, either put me in what I paid for or refund me the excess I paid. I got what I paid for. Shared cabin with shower and WC. I was alone and (it was an “inside” cabin, thus no window) slept like a baby (soundly, unlike John McCain after he lost the election). Prior to going to dreamland, I had a few stiff ones (this time it was affordable), pork knuckle and wine for dinner and stared at the ocean and kept on asking: why would anyone pay for a cabin with a window (much more) and stare at a mass of water? But, to each his own, as long as they do not expect me to pay for it.

Woke up the next morning, had a terrible breakfast for 30 zlotis (just under $10) and looked as the ferry approached Gdansk. A city that I have never been to and which would become my home for three days before leaving for a one-nighter in Warsaw from where I will be flying to Sofia.

Leave Pittsburgh via Chicago for Stockholm where I’ll be attending the “Explore Advertising” conference and presenting a paper.

On May 6 I will be taking the train from Stockholm to Nynashamn from where I will board the overnight ferry to Gdansk, Poland and arriving at 13h00 on May 7.

May 10 I will take the train to Warsaw for a one-nighter before catching a plane the next day to Sofia, Bulgaria. Got a frantic call from my bank yesterday (they have detected possible fraudulent behavior with my card … no, I told the bank, it’s just moi who bought a plane ticket to Sofia). Will spend a few days in Sofia; take the bus to the capital of the Republic of Macedonia, Skopje for another one-nighter. On May 14 I will take the bus to Ohrid for my month long stay after which I have allowed two weeks for touring through Greece on my Athens departure on June 27. I will, of course, undertake several one or two-day trips from Ohrid into Albania and wherever … only time will tell.

This will be the second year in a row where I will be staying in ONE place for an extended period of time. This year my accommodation will be much better compared to last year’s.

Please note, to all the interested parties, I will not be posting on a regular basis, I will not be answering emails; thus, if you want to know where I am, what I am/will be doing, sign up and follow me on twitter by clicking on the twitter logo.

See y’all late summer!

The Cinque Terre (5 lands) region is a world heritage site on the northwestern coast of Italy (on the Liguarian sea) and very popular with tourists (thanks to Rick Steves!) It consists of five villages; viz.: Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso al Mare (south to north).

Torrential rains in October 2011 led to total chaos, and apparently near total destruction of Vernazza and Monterosso. Having watched the videos below, I am devastated. My trip to Cinque Terre is one that I will never forget … here’s to those crazy Italians urging them to rebuild this as soon as possible.

Hopefully it won’t be long before this area is restored back to its former glory as in this video.

I thought my trip for this summer was finalized, when I was notified that my proposal for presenting a paper at the International Conference
of Stockholm University was accepted. Thus the planning started all over again!

I will now leave Pittsburgh on May 1 and fly via Chicago to Stockholm where I will stay until May 5. There will not be a lot of time for sightseeing in this city that I have not visited before. On Sunday, May 6, I will take the overnight ferry from Nynashamn to Gdansk, Poland.

Gdansk is a city that I “discovered” online and it looks gorgeous. From Gdansk I will travel to another one of my discoveries, Poznan. From Poznan I will be finding my way to Warsaw for one night before I fly into Sofia, Bulgaria. I will spend two days in Sofia before taking the bus to Skopje (one day) and onto Ohrid where I will be “back on schedule” when I start my month-long stay on the lake on May 14.

I am keeping a very close eye on the situation in Greece as I have planned to travel through Greece to Athensduring my final two weeks for my departure on June 27. If the situation remains as volatile as is now the case, I may very well spend the time allocated to Greece, in Bulgaria and fly from Sofia to Athens for my return flight. But who knows, I have proved over and over again how quickly things can change; don’t worry, I’ll keep you posted!

She told me that she will be graduating in May and then off to the Peace Corps. Yeah, you’ve got it. She is one helluva neat young lady and we started talking about traveling … where she is going to be during her stay with the Peace Corps; she inquired about my plans for the summer and so forth.

Then she looked me straight in the eye and said: “You are living my dream.” I told her that one creates one’s own dreams, sure I have traveled a lot (30 countries at last count, and anywhere between 3 and 5 new ones will be added this summer), but I have created that dream.

If I can do it, so can you! So, when are you starting to travel?

Sofia

On Monday May 7^th, a friend will drop me off at a motel near Pittsburgh airport where I will be spending the night as my flight (once again!) leaves at an ungodly hour the next morning for Sofia, Bulgaria. Flying via Chicago and Heathrow, I will arrive in Sofia the following afternoon at 1:30 p.m. (yes, you have it, a day and a half to get there … I have a long NIGHT layover in Heathrow, and with London pubs closing at 11, it would serve no purpose to go downtown. There are, however, showers at the airport, so at least I will be clean, not smelly. Fortunately Heathrow is a big airport and there should be more than enough places open during the night.

I have reserved my apartment from May 14. The five days prior, I will spend between Sofia and Skopje (capital of Macedonia). From the internet I learned that Skopje has very little to offer, so most time will be spent in Sofia. I will leave Skopje on the 14^th by bus for an afternoon arrival in Ohrid (pronounced Og-riet; yeah, I know how Americans struggle with the guttural G sounds, so practice!)

Skopje

Pogradec

During my month in Ohrid, I will take several day trips; some of them may even be overnight (does this ring a bell “Piran students?” J) I definitely want to go to Albania, especially Pogradec, which is also located on Lake Ohrid.

My time will be up in Ohrid on June 13. I fly back ex Athens; thus I have two weeks to find my way to Athens. I intend to do this via Florina, Thessaloniki, (one or 2 more villages) arriving in Athens AT LEAST three days before my departure on June 27 … I have never been to Greece and Athens has always  been very high on my list … however, considering what is cooking there right now????????

And do not forget how cold it was in Europe this winter!

I would be lying if I say that I was not pleased when I left Quito. Although I was breathing more comfortably, it was still a great relief when I left. The trip over the Andes to Otavalo is amongst the most spectacular I have ever experienced. I just wished that the driver would have stopped to let us take pictures, but typical Ecuadorian drivers, he rushed from point A to point B, like there was no tomorrow. The ride took about 2 hours and cost about $1(transportation in Ecuador is ridiculously cheap. There is a standard cab fee in Otavalo of $1.50 between points A and B within the city limits). When I arrived at the bus station, I walked over to a cab and showed him the address of my hostel. Roberto, the owner, was not there and you guessed it: I HAD to go, and true to my belief, regardless of what Ecuadorians do, I was not going to pee in the street! Period.

While I was waiting, a woman approached and asked me whether I was waiting for Roberto. I replied in the affirmative; she knew him and called. [FYI: This was my first meeting with Sophia, a woman from Scotland who used to date Roberto. More, a lot more, on her later]. When Roberto arrived, he told me I should have peed in the street – apart from my infamous eye roll I also gave him my equally devastating look.

While I was waiting on one of the roof terraces as Roberto and Sophia were getting my room ready, I met Wolfgang He was a German who wanted to sell me property on the spot. He employed the typical expat strategy, “things are going to get more expensive and you have to act now.” Thus, within 30 minutes of my arrival I exercised my devastating eye roll and look for a second time.

My en suite room, for a mere $10/night, had a balcony with a view of the Imbabura volcano. Standing on my balcony, all of a sudden, I was out of breath again. Naw, I thought, it is all in the mind, as your breathing troubles were over. But, what were the diesel fumes I smelled? Yep, you guessed it; this was only the start of my problems! I hung out at the hostel, met some people, and walked around a bit and discovered a super market where I bought a few things.

Early next morning I was looking for a place where I could have breakfast. For the first time in my life I was in a place where (or so it seemed) NOBODY could speak English. It would appear that there were NO places that served breakfast and I was getting hungrier by the minute. When I passed a place with pictures of the dishes they served, and one of those pictures contained two fried eggs, I sat down. I was the only person in the restaurant and of course, we had a language problem. I pointed to the picture and showed the owner what I wanted pain (bread) as well, hoping to get toast. I also gestured that I wanted coffee.

After what seemed like an eternity, I got my meal. It was HUMUNGOUS!  I could not eat it all and was hoping and praying that I was not putting some strange (unacceptable) food in my mouth [FYI: I knew it was not the Ecuadorian delicacy, Toro Pene Sopa, or in English: bull penis soup!]

I returned to the hostel for a shower and to get ready for my first day in Otavalo, renowned for its crafts. Nice BIG shower, but virtually NO water pressure. I had a drip-drip shower (when talking to Roberto about this, he told me that they had not been able to solve the problem on HOW to get the water from the source to the various outlets). It may have taken longer than the usual shower, but I managed to get clean and off I went.

First stop was the bank to get funds to pay Roberto. Afterwards I continued to the market where I stood in awe. I have NEVER seen anything like it. The most beautiful crafts at ridiculously low prices. While standing there, and while strolling through this enormous market, I realized how much good expats could do (like writing a grant and get the necessary funding to put a roof over the market … that would prevent the vendors from packing every time there was a shower). I was, and still am, even after I have been back for nearly two months, in awe of that place.

I stayed in Otavalo for a week and did several things during my stay. The most important ones are:

• At my request, Sophia showed me her house that she is busy building. Wow! It is a three-storey house, built on a lot with an incredible view of Otavalo. One storey is complete and she lives there while the other two stories are been completed. Upon completion the house will be around 3,000 square meters with an incredible view, 3 bathrooms, 4/5 bedrooms, dining room, kitchen and living room and several roof terraces … all of this for $50,000! She has a huge lot and is already growing veggies and started her flowers. The house is in a typical neighborhood and neighbors boast pigs, chickens, cows and sheep (not to mention the dogs!) She has a really nice house and I fell in love when I saw it. While we were at her house, a friend of hers called from Imbabura, who was on his way to Otavalo and wanted to hook up. With a: “You have to meet him,” she called a cab (for $1.50, remember) and we went to the town. I had a ball with her friend and his charming wife as well as a very productive discussion.
• Ian stayed at the same hostel and is 60 years old. He is from England and is traveling through South America and will be doing so until he turns 65 when his retirement kicks in! I had a ball with him and we spent a lot of time together. I was sad to see him off the day before I left.
• I made a day trip to Cotacachi; a delightful place, known for its leatherworks. Once again American expats spoiled it for me. Based on my experience(s) in Ecuador, I believe the expats I have met are of the lowest quality of people, outcasts.  These people do not mingle with the locals; they do not integrate with them; do not learn Spanish. In fact, there is a huge contingency of expats in Cotacachi who meet with the mayor on a regular basis and during the last meeting DEMANDED THAT ANNOUNCEMENTS ARE MADE/SENT OUT IN ENGLISH AS WELL!! The locals HATE us and we have only ourselves to blame. Trust me, I hate the expats whom I have met, as badly!!
• I went to the market with Sophia to make purchases (both as gifts and mementoes). I bought 20 scarves for the ladies at the university and two tapestries for moi.
• Woke up one Saturday morning and heard the noises of pigs and cows. Rushed to my balcony and there locals were getting their livestock to the Saturday market. Quite an experience!

I am not going to discuss my breathing problems (again), as I continued to experience these, but not as badly as in Quito. Before I knew it, my time was up. I took the bus to Quito from where I flew to Guayaquil, onto Miami and finally Pittsburgh.

Studio apartment with a little kitchenette, BUT a balcony with a view of Lake Ohrid; a view to kill for (so it looks, check out the pic and you decide). I do not know Ohrid, but what I have learned is that it is hilly and one has to be careful where an apartment is situated … it would appear that Apartment Risteski is on a flat area, near Lake Ohrid, near bakeries, near a supermarket.

When you look at the pics, you may think that the kitchenette does not have a lot. So, I wrote Antonio, the leasing agent/owner (will find that out what his relationship with this apartment is when I get there), that I love to cook and the little one burner was not going to do it (I mean, major dinner parties, a la Hyacinth’s candlelight dinners!) I mentioned that I saw an oven (like our microwave ovens) with two burners on top and said to him that I would appreciate it if I could get one like that. Even said that I would pay to rent one.

Antonio responded that he had one at home which is not being used and he’ll bring it along! Thus on day one in Ohrid, I will settle in, get to the supermarket, the bakeries and stock up on food and BOOZE (I mean, with a view like that; that’s an excuse to sip wine, watching the sun go down!) And all of this for $22/night (sure, Antonio cut me a break. He seems like a very nice guy.)

Anyone who wants to join me? I’ll be there from May 14 to June 13. Check out the location. Did I mention that I was psyched? (FYI: it has reached my ears that the Republic of Macedonia has a DRY climate – snows though – so who knows? Retirement?) Did I mention that I was psyched?

On our way to the Middle of the Earth. Quito is not a pretty city

Tom told me that New Year’s day was big in Quito as “they take to the streets” and based on this, I decided to extend my stay in order to “recover” from the major hangover I was going to experience following the New Year’s Day Party. Finally, the 31^st arrived. I kept a low profile (slept in a bit, had a late breakfast) and just before noon, I took to the streets. OMG! There were people everywhere and they were setting up stands, bands were making incredible sounds, it was all in the air, one could feel it. There was a major smile on my face as I could feel that I was about to experience the MOTHER of all NY parties … to hell with what I experienced in Trafalgar Square, or Times Square, I was about to be part of the biggest one of them all … right here in Quito (amazing how my breathing problems were something of the past … of course those pills worked!)

I continued to walk down Avenue of the Americas and could not believe what my eyes were seeing. I KNEW this was going to be HUGE, eat your hearts out Americans; y’all have NO idea how to party. Sure, let’s do shots! Eventually I sat down for a drink and a bite. This American lady started talking to me. If I thought this was big, she told me, be here around midnite. Sure she had experienced it many, many times before. It was then that I decided to head back home, take a nap and get ready for the MOTHER OF ALL PARTIES (I mean, one has to know one’s limitations, right?)

No sooner was I in my room and there was a knock on my door; a female who identified herself as Jenny, was calling out my name. I opened and there she was: Jenny, whom I met in Banos (with her partner Mike) and whom I had told about my hostel in Quito). Hugs around, I went down to greet, Mike. Of course, the bottle of rum came out, it was Cuba Libres all around and we discussed our strategy for welcoming 2012. I relayed what everyone had told me: it was going to be crazy and, considering that we were getting a bit long in the tooth, it was agreed that it would be best for us to recharge the batteries prior to that evening (in other words, get some much needed rest!)

Quito is not pretty and BIG ... stretches 30 miles from north to south!

We gathered in the dining room area around 9:30 that evening, had another Cuba Libre, and off we went. For the MOTHER of all parties. Each of us boasted about where we had welcomed a New Year before. My contribution was Trafalgar Square and Time Square. We were all psyched up when we hit the Avenue of the Americas, we were READY as THIS was going to be IT (like Coke, just a lot better). Then we looked around on the Avenue of Americas … we could not believe our eyes (at least, I could not as I was there earlier the day!) … every thing that was erected earlier during the day was either gone, or being taken down! WTF!!! The New Year was 2 hours away? I have extended my stay in Quito to welcome the New Year … WHAT was going on?

“Oh,” I assured them, “the action is further down the street. Wait till we get to that square where the American lady told me  about what’s going to cook tonite. And the band there, was unreal.” Who the hell was I trying to fool? The further we walked, the closer we got to the MAGICAL square, it was more of the same: constructions were either already gone, or being taken down. WTF (for a second time). We arrived at the square that I was bragging up and it was even worse: everything that was there earlier during the day was GONE! Tables outside restaurants and bars were taken inside, it seemed like it was a ghost town (OK, I am exaggerating!). I was shocked, to say the least.

This was about the time that Mother Nature started calling, and although it is quite common for Ecuadorian males to relieve themselves outdoors in the presence of others, I remembered what Bette Midler said (which I referred to earlier on). I informed Jenny and Mike that I would meet them at the Corner Pub as they were trying to figure out whether the few remaining musicians only knew one song: Simon’s, “I’d rather be a snail.”  Needless to say, I made it to the pub in record time and by the time my companions arrived, I had already downed two drinks.

I heard this band earlier during the day when the lady told me everything was going to happen that night. I could not wait. When we got there, it was all gone! Oh well ..

We sat there. Shell shocked. What was going on? Where was everybody? Where did it all go? Where did it go wrong (not to sound like Susan Boyle!) When in doubt, ask the locals. Oh, we were told, it is all very simple. People leave around 10 to celebrate with their families! Wow! How I hated that American woman who told me otherwise! I wanted to lick my wounds and decided to go home. Mike and Jenny said no, let’s find a place. I said no, I’ll cut my losses and went home. I could not have been in my room for more than five minutes when the two were there: “You are coming with us, and we are not taking no for an answer.” I agreed and we took a couple from Argentine with us.” We looked around and looked around, but everything was CLOSED; thus when we found a bar that was open, we jumped on it (or should I say into it!)

Our problems started the moment we sat down (the place was remarkably empty for a New Year’s evening) and ordered FIVE beers. We were brought six. We explained that there were only five of us; the waitress took two beers back. Wait a bit, wait a bit, now we are one short. So back came the two beers that were removed earlier! We managed to sort it out (after what seemed like a lifetime) an were making small talk with one eye on the clock; yours truly being so ticked off as the “mother of all parties” was not going to materialize.

And then it happened. It was 2012! Whoopee! Never been so excited in my life (yeah right!) Standing on the balcony, waving at the few pedestrians down in the street (must admit, that was my Evita moment!) when one of the workers rushed out to the balcony and removed the “DOL.” (FYI: Around the Christmas holiday period and leading up to the New Year strange looking doll-like figures go on sale all over Ecuador. These dolls are up to three or four feet in height and are referred to as “Los Años Viejos” (the old years). The dolls are burned at midnight to bring in the New Year – as in burning an effigy.)

Check all the thousands in the street, one doll is burning!

And our intelligent person is trying to set our doll on fire ... TG she did not set the other guy alight!

Nice couple from Argentina who celebrated with us

She carted it downstairs, into the street and tried to set it on fire with (what I assumed was vodka?) but to no avail. Then someone arrived with (what I again assumed) was some flammable liquid (it later turned out to be just that) which he poured over the doll. WHILE HE WAS STILL POURING THE LIQUID, THE MADAM SET IT ON FIRE; the flame moving right up to the bottle (which was still in his hand!) Luckily he held his cool and a disaster was averted! And we were all happy, so happy, what a great way to welcome 2012. New Year’s Day 2012 fell on a Sunday and the selling of alcohol in Ecuador is verboten on this holy day. However, the President in all his wisdom agreed that this day could be an exception, but Ecuadorians would have to repent on the next day! Give me a break, even George Bush never did something as stupid as that.

And here's Jenny each leg in a different hemisphere!

Something about being able to balance an egg at the Equator

He DID it!

Following the disastrous New Year’s we had, we decided to go to Mitad del Mundo, the Middle of the Earth. Jenny was in charge to get us there. Well, it did not bode well after we had been walking for some time (towards the bus stop) I asked for the map and saw that we were “miles” away from the bus stop. We stopped a cab driver to take us to the stop. We then negotiated with him to take us to Mitad del Mundo for $40 (divided between 3 people, it came to $13/each). Not only was it a good deal, but the cab driver was an incredible guy who told us a lot about Quito (like renting a 2-bedroom apartment for $200/month) and he even stopped for us to take pics. The pics on here tell the story. Enjoy!